The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than We Were Decades Ago.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the path of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the capital's vibrant 1990s artistic milieu, evolving from mannequin to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.

"That time was the peak of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be great friends. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

While Enninful may seem sentimental, he is in good company. Recently, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has grown intense. However in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a profound shift. "In my view, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

A Perceived Regression

This shift is increasingly evident: the rise of far-right politics, the pushback against progressive values, and the return of traditional beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the late 90s, currently a different political force appears as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an emblem of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more.

According to Enninful, the solution has always been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the driving force behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, including a wide range of influential figures from literature.

"Those in a position of influence should use it," he says, referring to those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain was not a welcoming country, if it did not offer my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this period will pass."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He draws solace in the younger generation: "They’re much more aware than we were. They talk about implicit prejudice – I didn't even know what that was."

Those early experiences would shape a groundbreaking career characterised by fearlessness and representation. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His time featured landmark covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Significantly, sales increased.

"To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has since founded his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since leaving his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "innovator".

"I’ve always questioned the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, with nothing, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being both an insider and outsider."

Contrary to the caricature of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is calm and exudes calm. His journey has not been immune to challenges, including publicly shared battles with depression and addiction.

He has also endured significant health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, away from work, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to be typecast has led him beyond the world that made his name. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a host of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and spotlight those who weren't given due recognition at the time.

"Institutions sometimes neglected to shine a light on the right artists because they weren't of the expected background," he states.

This project itself operates on a different business model, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "The question is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is part of a broader vision."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful operates as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His path, he states, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward make of the Edward of today? He laughs heartily. "He would be astonished, but he’d be pleased. At that time I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He adds. "Gratitude is key. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have counted me out my whole career. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve made up my mind to do something."